Tasting Viña El Pisón 1998 twenty years on is a firm reminder that far too many wines are drunk too young. This is a wine coming into its own with plenty more energy still. It has an open, expressive character, the complexity of aromas making it alluringly promising in the glass. There’s nothing attenuated or ethereal on the palate – it's remarkably dense, with juicy redcurrant fruit and a punchy lift of freshness. The flavours build with notes of tobacco and pepper, structured by fine tannins and leading to an exceptionally long finish.