(from vines planted mostly in 1949). A subdued nose only grudgingly reveals the cool and airy red and dark currant, earth, floral and sauvage scents. There is excellent punch, detail and minerality on to the sleek, delicious and saline-inflected flavors that display good focus and sneaky persistence on the balanced finish. This should drink well after 5 years or so yet reward up to 10. (90-92)/2023+