Young wines never have it easy in vertical tastings, because seasoned tasters are not easily blinded by primary aromas, but the Hubacker manages to flatter even the most critical of noses with a pleasant fragrance of fresh herbs, melissa the most prominent of all. Living proof that fruit doesn’t always have to be the be all and end all of olfactory seduction, although a gentle whiff of local orchards does add to the attraction. Radiant acidity gives rise to high hopes for a long life expectancy, and in combination with the delightful herbal expression on the finish produces an exhilarating coolness on the palate. I have no doubt that in time further treasures will emerge from beneath the surface of primary and secondary aromas. (MS)